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Wednesday-August 20, 2008 04:56 EDT

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Miniature Danish Modern
Coffee Table

I found the original plans for this table as a free project plan from a great source for many furniture plans which only need to be converted to scale.

	Tools needed to make this Miniature Danish Modern Coffee Table 12 inch ruler - steel preferred - I use as a straight edge for cutting! My custom graph paper - To measure with, and for checking final cuts - Download PDF here. The PDF Pattern for the Miniature Coffee Table - Gives you the dimensions needed, as well as some visual aids - Download PDF here I created a template Page for the Parts - It can be Downloaded here in PDF format #5 and/or #2 Precision Knife or Jig Saw - I used both, but either will work. Gluing Jig - This will play an important part in assembly and shaping the table top. Strip Cutter or Mini Table Saw - The strip cutter makes a lot of the cuts much simpler, but the Byrnes table saw is the easiest way! 220 to 1500 grit sand paper - Single sheets are available at the hardware store. Sanding Block or Sanding Wands - These will be used to bevel & round the table pieces edges. Stain & Varnish - Dark Walnut and light Maple are best. Set of Needle Files - The round, curved and flat files are needed. Gluing Jig - Keeping the parts square during gluing is very important to construction. Drawplate - Used to shave a 0.0625 (1/16^th) inch dowel or square stock down to the needed 0.03125" (1/32^nd) Drill Bit & Drill - 0.03125" (1/32^nd)
	The Wood & Other Items Needed for the Table! 3" W x 24" L x 1/16" (0.0625) T sheet of wood - Your choice of wood. Danish Modern used contrasting colors of wood - Light and Dark, Light for the table top and dark for the frame & legs The Thinnest dowel you can find - More than likely you'll need to sand the dowel down to size - W = Wide L = Long T = Thickness
Click Picture for PDF to Print	Cutting the Pieces for Your Table. There are only 13 wood pieces that need to be made for this table & 16 very small dowels. When cutting the wood for your table, make sure that the grain runs the same direction as the longest side of wood you cut! This is important to insure you created the strongest structure as possible, and is extremely important when it comes to the 4 legs. As always I transfer the pattern to my graph paper before I begin the cutting process - this gives me an accurate guide to follow. By clicking the picture to the left you can open a PDF file that will allow you to print out a template page for your coffee table.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Using the Strip Cutter! The strip cutter is a wonderful and indispensable tool to have. It is designed to cut varying sized wood strips, and can be used to make duplicate cuts very simple. Because you're cutting wood that is harder than balsa, it is best to use a more sturdy blade than the #11 blade provided with the strip cutter, I prefer the #2 blade. Make sure that your cutting surface is clean from any debris that could cause the cut to become un-square. Start with a fresh edge on the wood to be cut, or an edge that you last used the strip cutter with. Expand the blade out to the width you want the piece cut, and adjust the blade so that it only cuts into the wood enough to score it. Always run the length of the wood you're cutting, trying to stop half way will only result in your wasting the wood later. The extra wood cut, can always be used for another project later. After the initial cut, adjust the blade so that it cuts deeper, and repeat until the wood is split. Please remember it is better to take more time in cutting the wood, as you will get a more accurately cut piece that way, than if you try to make a deep cut and cut quicker.
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Click Picture to Enlarge	Using the Jim Byrnes Table Saw, or suitable substitute! Because the Byrnes table saw is so accurate it is very simple to make all but the leg cuts with it. Don't forget to measure twice and cut once.
	Cutting & Assembling the Pieces
Click Picture to Enlarge	(5) Table Top Pieces 0.333" (4/12^th) W x 5" (5/12^th) L x 0.0625" (1/16^th) T Using a pencil put a light mark across the 3" W edge of the wood. First cut a 5" L x 3" W piece off the end of the 3" W x 24" L x 1/16" T strip of wood, it is very important to keep the ends square. Now making sure the grain is running the long way (5" length) cut the 5, 0.333" (4/12^th") W strips for the top pieces.
Click Picture to Enlarge Click Picture to Enlarge	Assembly of the Table Top Using the pencil marks as a guide, alternate the pieces mark up, mark down - and then glue the pieces together. By alternating the pieces you'll create a stronger top. Make sure the glued edges are very tight, set the assembly aside and let dry completely. You'll notice in the picture to the left, the table top pieces are longer than quoted - I like doing this to allow me to square the edges after assembly
Click Picture to Enlarge	(2) Side Stretchers 0.229166" (2/12^th+1/16^th) W x 3.04166" (3-1/24^th) L x 0.0625" (1/16^th) T From the remaining 3" W x 24" L x 1/16" T wide strip of wood, cut a strip 0.229166" (2/12^th+1/16^th) W the full length of the strip. Cut 2 pieces from the strip, 3.04166" (3-1/24^th) L, and set aside for later.
Click Picture to Enlarge	(2) End Stretchers 0.229166" (2/12^th+1/16^th) W x 0.875" (21/24^th) L x 0.0625" (1/16^th) T From the strip you cut for the side stretchers cut 2 pieces 0.875" (21/24^th) L and set aside for later.
Click Picture to Enlarge	(4) Leg Blanks 0.4166" (5/12^th) W x 1.1875" (1-9/48^th) L x 0.0625" (1/16^th) T From the remaining 3" W x 24" L x 1/16" T wide strip of wood, cut a strip 0.4166" (5/12^th) W. From this strip cut 4 pieces 1.1875" (1-5/48^th) L each.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Transfer the Leg Pattern to Wood Using 1' to 1" graph paper draw a leg pattern using the pattern as a guide. Once you have transferred the pattern to the graph paper, lay a leg blank next to the pattern and transfer the image to the blank. It is important to make sure the grain of the wood runs the same way as the long side of the leg.
Click Picture to Enlarge Click Picture to Enlarge	Cutting & Shaping the Legs Next using the Click to download the PDF Pattern Guide pattern PDF as a guide, shape and cut the legs. I used a combination of a jig saw and moto tool with sanding barrel. After I got the shape roughed out - I stack all 4 legs together using a small rubber band to hold them in place (you can also use your hands if you're careful). I then used the moto tool, and sanding wands to attain the final shape. You can also use an X-acto knife, sanding wands and needle files, it just takes a little longer. Set aside for later.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Table Top Shaping By now the table top should be dry and ready for the final shaping. Place a light pencil edge marks 0.166" (2/12^th) from the front edges on all 4 corners.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Marking the Table Top Curve Put the table top good side down in the middle of the gluing jig and secure in place. Now using the picture to the left, a thin piece of wood and some magnets, curve the wood to provide a line to mark the top of the table for the final cuts. Make sure you know where the center line is (2 1/2") -- flip and do the other side.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Cut the top to shape I used a disc sander to do this, it works very quickly and accurately. You can also use an X-acto knife and sanding block.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Finishing Touches to the Table Top Bevel-Rounding the edges of the table top gives it just the right touch. Beveling the edges about 0.0833" (1/12^th) in from the edge and then rounding the edge is what is needed. It can be easily done with the sanding block - just keep the bevel the same on all edges. To make sure you bevel no more than 1/12th inch on the table edges, put a light pencil mark 0.0833" (1/12^th) around the entire edge of the table top. Do not bevel more than 1/2 the thickness of the table top, then finish it off by rounding the edges. Use your sanding block to bevel and round the edges. Do the final sanding and prepare the table top for finish. NOTE! -- The combination of light and dark wood is a Danish Modern trait and should be incorporated in this piece as well. I'll finish the top light - and the lower stand dark. This will simulate a Maple top with Walnut frame and legs.
Click Picture to Buy One	Making the Dowels Finding a dowel the right size is impossible - they need to be 0.03125" (1/32^nd) in diameter - the smallest I have been able to find are 0.0625" (1/16^th) thick and that isn't nearly thin enough to do the job. So it is necessary to use a draw plate to create the size dowel needed. A drawplate is a tool that has been around since the Roman times - it is a simple tool made up of many holes each one a little smaller than the previous sized holes. Usually made out of metal plate, each holes edge act like a razor, shaving the wood down a little more with each successive pass through the drawplate. If you are lucky enough to own a draw plate that allows a reduction down to 0.03125" (1/32^nd) simply reduce the stock you have to the needed size. If you don't have one - read "Making a Drawplate" below.
Click Picture to Enlarge	Making a Drawplate I took a piece of scrap stainless steel that I had laying around (I got it from a discarded display at work) and drilled successively smaller holes using numbered drill bits - starting with a 0.0625" (1/16^th) bit, and ending with 0.03125" (1/32^nd) bit. Numbered bits are the best choice as they offer smallest size difference between bits. Successively pull the wood through the holes (several times through each hole) until you reach the size needed. Set the dowel in a safe place for use later.
Click Picture to Enlarge Click Picture to Enlarge	Sanding and Rounding the Legs and Stretchers Do the final sanding of the legs, ends and side stretchers, by rounding all the edges EXCEPT the end of the stretchers, or the edge of the leg that attaches to the side stretchers. Examine the picture in the Pattern PDF file and round the leg accordingly. Prepare the legs, and stretchers for the finish.
	All the Parts Sanded and Ready to Stain
	Staining the Wood I used a Colonial Maple penetrating stain for the top and a Special Walnut for the legs, stretchers and dowels. Stain each piece and allow to dry completely - then sand each piece through 1500 sandpaper to get the smoothest finish, re-stain if needed and allow to dry completely.
	Drilling the Holes for the dowels Follow the Pattern PDF for placements of the dowel holes! Probably the hardest part of making this table is drilling the holes for the dowels. Each leg has four dowels that are used to attach to the end and side stretchers. The dowels for the end stretchers don't have to be used, but it does add to the strength of the table if they are used. Practice, Practice, Practice before you attempt to put the needed holes in the leg and side stretcher. I made the depth of the hole 0.0625" (1/16^th), a bit deeper than the plans, but easier to achieve. So be careful! Use a 0.03125" (1/32^nd) drill bit for the hole
	Cutting the Dowels Each dowel used for connecting the side stretchers is 0.1875" (3/16^th) in length. When glued together the dowel should have 0.0625" (1/16^th) exposed. If you're going to attach the end stretchers with dowels also, the holes on the leg can only be about 1/2 the depth of the thickness of the legs which is 0.03125" (1/32^nd). This dowel is not exposed when the leg and end stretcher are glued together - the depth of the hole in the end stretcher is 0.0625" (1/16th) giving you a total length of the dowel as 0.09375" (3/32^nd). Follow the Pattern PDF for placements of the dowel holes! Make sure you wipe off any excess glue from the connection - it can affect the finish if you don't.