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Tools needed to make this
Miniature Danish Modern Coffee Table
12 inch ruler - steel preferred - I use as
a straight edge for cutting!
My custom graph paper - To measure with, and for
checking final cuts -
Download PDF here.
The PDF Pattern for the Miniature Coffee Table -
Gives you the dimensions needed, as well as some visual aids
-
Download PDF here
I created a template Page for the Parts -
It can be Downloaded here in PDF format
#5 and/or #2 Precision Knife or Jig Saw - I used both,
but either will work.
Gluing Jig - This will play an important part in assembly
and shaping the table top.
Strip Cutter or Mini Table Saw - The strip cutter
makes a lot of the cuts much simpler, but the Byrnes table saw
is the easiest way!
220 to 1500 grit sand paper - Single sheets are
available at the hardware store.
Sanding Block or Sanding Wands - These will be used to bevel & round the
table pieces edges.
Stain & Varnish - Dark Walnut and light Maple are best.
Set of Needle Files - The round, curved and flat
files are needed.
Gluing Jig - Keeping the parts square during
gluing is very important to construction.
Drawplate - Used to shave a 0.0625
(1/16th) inch dowel or square stock down to
the needed 0.03125" (1/32nd)
Drill Bit & Drill
- 0.03125"
(1/32nd)
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The Wood & Other Items
Needed for the Table!
3"
W x 24"
L x 1/16" (0.0625)
T sheet of wood - Your
choice of wood. Danish Modern used contrasting colors of wood -
Light and Dark, Light for the table top and dark for the frame &
legs
The Thinnest dowel you can find - More than likely
you'll need to sand the dowel down to size -
W = Wide L = Long T = Thickness |
Click Picture
for PDF to Print |
Cutting the Pieces for Your
Table.
There are only 13 wood pieces that need to be made for this
table & 16 very small dowels.
When cutting the wood for your table, make sure that the grain
runs the same direction as the longest side of wood you cut!
This is important to insure you created the strongest structure
as possible, and is extremely important when it comes to the 4
legs.
As always I transfer the pattern to my graph paper before I
begin the cutting process - this gives me an accurate guide to
follow. By clicking the picture to the left you can open a
PDF file that will allow you to print out a template page for
your coffee table. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Using the Strip Cutter!
The strip cutter is a wonderful and indispensable tool to have.
It is designed to cut varying sized wood strips, and can be used
to make duplicate cuts very simple.
Because you're cutting wood that is harder than balsa, it is
best to use a more sturdy blade than the #11 blade provided with
the strip cutter, I prefer the #2 blade. Make sure that
your cutting surface is clean from any debris that could cause
the cut to become un-square.
Start with a fresh edge on the wood to be cut, or an edge that
you last used the strip cutter with. Expand the blade out
to the width you want the piece cut, and adjust the blade so
that it only cuts into the wood enough to score it. Always
run the length of the wood you're cutting, trying to stop half
way will only result in your wasting the wood later. The
extra wood cut, can always be used for another project later.
After the initial cut, adjust the blade so that it cuts deeper,
and repeat until the wood is split. Please remember it is
better to take more time in cutting the wood, as you will get a
more accurately cut piece that way, than if you try to make a
deep cut and cut quicker. |
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or |
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Click Picture to Enlarge |
Using the Jim Byrnes Table
Saw, or suitable substitute!
Because the Byrnes table saw is so accurate it is very
simple to make all but the leg cuts with it. Don't forget
to measure twice and cut once. |
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Cutting &
Assembling the Pieces |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
(5) Table Top Pieces
0.333"
(4/12th)
W x 5"
(5/12th)
L x
0.0625"
(1/16th)
T
Using a pencil put a light mark across the 3"
W edge of the wood.
First cut a 5" L
x 3" W piece off the end of
the 3" W x 24"
L x 1/16"
T strip of wood, it is
very important to keep the ends square.
Now making sure the grain is running the long way (5" length)
cut the 5, 0.333" (4/12th")
W strips for the top pieces. |
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Assembly of the Table Top
Using the pencil marks as a guide, alternate the pieces mark up,
mark down - and then glue the pieces together.
By alternating the pieces you'll create a stronger top.
Make sure the glued edges are very tight, set the assembly aside
and let dry completely.
You'll notice in the picture to the left, the table top pieces
are longer than quoted - I like doing this to allow me to square
the edges after assembly |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
(2) Side Stretchers
0.229166" (2/12th+1/16th)
W x 3.04166" (3-1/24th)
L x 0.0625" (1/16th)
T
From the remaining 3" W x
24" L x 1/16"
T wide strip of wood, cut a
strip 0.229166" (2/12th+1/16th)
W the full length of
the strip.
Cut 2 pieces from the strip, 3.04166" (3-1/24th)
L, and set aside for later. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
(2) End Stretchers
0.229166"
(2/12th+1/16th)
W x 0.875"
(21/24th)
L x 0.0625"
(1/16th)
T
From the strip you cut for the side stretchers cut 2 pieces
0.875" (21/24th)
L and set aside for later. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
(4) Leg Blanks
0.4166" (5/12th)
W x 1.1875" (1-9/48th) L
x 0.0625" (1/16th)
T
From the remaining 3" W x
24" L x 1/16"
T wide strip of wood, cut a
strip 0.4166" (5/12th)
W.
From this strip cut 4 pieces 1.1875" (1-5/48th)
L
each. |
Click Picture to Enlarge
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Transfer the Leg Pattern
to Wood
Using 1' to 1" graph paper draw a leg pattern using the pattern
as a guide. Once you have transferred the pattern to the
graph paper, lay a leg blank next to the pattern and transfer
the image to the blank.
It is important to make sure the grain of the wood runs the same
way as the long side of the leg. |
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Cutting & Shaping the Legs
Next using the
Click to download the PDF Pattern Guide
pattern PDF as a guide,
shape and cut the legs.
I used a combination of a jig saw and moto tool with sanding
barrel. After I got the shape roughed out - I stack all 4
legs together using a small rubber band to hold them in place
(you can also use your hands if you're careful). I then
used the moto tool, and sanding wands to attain the final shape. You can also
use an X-acto knife, sanding wands and needle files, it just takes a little
longer.
Set aside for later. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Table Top Shaping
By now the table top should be dry and ready for the final
shaping.
Place a light pencil edge marks 0.166" (2/12th)
from the front edges on all 4 corners. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Marking
the Table Top Curve
Put the table top good side down in the middle of the gluing jig
and secure in place.
Now using the picture to the left, a thin piece of wood and some
magnets, curve the wood to provide a line to mark the top of the
table for the final cuts. Make sure you know where the
center line is (2 1/2") -- flip and do the other side. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Cut the top to shape
I used a disc sander to do this, it works very quickly and
accurately. You can also use an X-acto knife and sanding
block. |
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Finishing Touches to the
Table Top
Bevel-Rounding the edges of the table top gives it just the
right touch.
Beveling the edges about 0.0833" (1/12th)
in from the edge and then rounding the edge is what is needed.
It can be easily done with the sanding block - just keep the
bevel the same on all edges.
To make sure you bevel no more than 1/12th inch on the table
edges, put a light pencil mark 0.0833" (1/12th) around the entire
edge of the table top. Do not bevel more than 1/2 the
thickness of the table top, then finish it off by rounding the
edges. Use your sanding block to bevel and round the
edges.
Do the final sanding and prepare the table top for finish.
NOTE! -- The combination of
light and dark wood is a Danish Modern trait and should be
incorporated in this piece as well. I'll finish the top
light - and the lower stand dark. This will simulate a
Maple top with Walnut frame and legs. |
Click Picture to Buy One |
Making the Dowels
Finding a dowel the right size is impossible - they need to be
0.03125" (1/32nd) in
diameter - the smallest I have been able to find are 0.0625"
(1/16th) thick and that
isn't nearly thin enough to do the job. So it is necessary
to use a draw plate to create the size dowel needed.
A drawplate is a tool that has been around since the Roman times
- it is a simple tool made up of many holes each one a little
smaller than the previous sized holes. Usually made out of
metal plate, each holes edge act like a razor, shaving the wood
down a little more with each successive pass through the
drawplate.
If you are lucky enough to own a draw plate that allows a
reduction down to 0.03125" (1/32nd)
simply reduce the stock you have to the needed size. If
you don't have one - read "Making a
Drawplate" below.
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Click Picture to Enlarge |
Making a Drawplate
I took a piece of scrap stainless steel that I had laying around
(I got it from a discarded display at work) and
drilled successively smaller holes using numbered drill bits -
starting with a 0.0625" (1/16th) bit, and ending with 0.03125" (1/32nd)
bit.
Numbered bits are the best choice as they offer smallest size
difference between bits. Successively pull the wood
through the holes (several times through each hole) until you
reach the size needed. Set the dowel in a safe place for
use later. |
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge |
Sanding and Rounding the Legs and
Stretchers
Do the final sanding of the legs, ends and side stretchers, by
rounding all the edges EXCEPT the end of the stretchers, or the
edge of the leg that attaches to the side stretchers.
Examine the picture in the
Pattern PDF file and
round the leg accordingly. Prepare the legs, and stretchers for the finish. |
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All the Parts Sanded and
Ready to Stain |
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Staining the Wood
I used a Colonial Maple penetrating stain for the top and a
Special Walnut for
the legs, stretchers and dowels. Stain each piece and
allow to dry completely - then sand each piece through 1500 sandpaper to get the smoothest finish, re-stain if needed and allow
to dry completely. |
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Drilling the Holes for the
dowels
Follow the
Pattern PDF for
placements of the dowel holes!
Probably the hardest part of making this table is drilling
the holes for the dowels. Each leg has four dowels that
are used to attach to the end and side stretchers. The
dowels for the end stretchers don't have to be used, but it does
add to the strength of the table if they are used. before you attempt to
put the needed holes in the leg and side stretcher. I made
the depth of the hole 0.0625" (1/16th),
a bit deeper than the plans, but easier to achieve. So be
careful!
Use a 0.03125" (1/32nd) drill
bit for the hole |
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Cutting the Dowels
Each dowel used for connecting the side stretchers is 0.1875"
(3/16th) in length. When
glued together the dowel should have 0.0625"
(1/16th) exposed.
If you're going to attach the end stretchers with dowels also,
the holes on the leg can only be about 1/2 the depth of the
thickness of the legs which is 0.03125" (1/32nd).
This dowel is not exposed when the leg and end stretcher are
glued together - the depth of the hole in the end stretcher is
0.0625" (1/16th) giving you a total length of the dowel as
0.09375" (3/32nd).
Follow the
Pattern PDF for
placements of the dowel holes!
Make sure you wipe off any excess glue from the connection - it
can affect the finish if you don't. |
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