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16-Drawer
Apothecary Chest
With Step by Step Instructions --
Completed 5/23/05 --
Apothecary chests have
been around for centuries and are a great place to store almost
anything. Originally designed for storing herbs, and medical powders,
they have evolved into a "Catch-All" for almost anything, from sewing
equipment to nuts and bolts. Below is a step by step process of how I
made this chest, and you're welcome to follow along as I build this
wonderful 16-drawer apothecary chest!
The Original
Download
the plans
Simply click this link, and provided you have
Adobe PDF reader you will bring up a page in a new
window you can save and print out. The instructions provided in
the PDF file are very basic - more elaborate instructions will
be here if you need them.
My Copy before I put the final touches on it
Tools needed to make this
16-drawer apothecary chest.
12 inch ruler - steel preferred - I use as a straight
edge for cutting! My custom graph paper - To measure with, and for
checking final cuts - Download here. Vernier slide caliper - The ones that have the depth
measuring blade that extends when opened. #5 and/or #2 Precision Knife - I used both, but either
will work. Razor saw and miter box - I always use the finest
toothed saw I can find! Strip Cutter - Makes a lot of the cuts much simpler.
220 to 1500 grit sand paper - Single sheets are
available at the hardware store. Stain & Varnish - Your choice Set of Needle Files - The round, curved and flat
files are needed. Gluing Jig - Keeping the parts square during
gluing is very important to construction.
The Wood & Other Items needed
for the chest!
3" x 1/16" x 24" sheet of Basswood - Some
of this wood will have to be sanded thinner to achieve the
thickness required for the drawer sides and ends! 3" x 1/32" x 24" sheet of Basswood - This wood will
have to be sanded thinner to achieve the thickness required by
the plans for the chest back and drawer bottoms! 12 white porcelain knobs - I haven't decided yet
how to make these, but am sure to let you know as soon as I
figure it out!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Cutting the pieces for your
chest.
There are a total of 133 wood pieces that need to be made for
this chest, but don't despair as 120 of these are duplicates of
other pieces. In reality there are only 13 different sized
pieces to make.
When cutting the wood for your chest, make sure that the grain
runs the same direction as the longest side of wood you cut!
This is important to insure you created the strongest structure
as possible.
We are going to duplicate many of these pieces by means of
making a simple jig, and that process will be explained later.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Use the Strip Cutter!
The strip cutter is a wonderful and indispensable tool to have.
It is designed to cut varying sized wood strips, and can be used
to make duplicate cuts very simple.
Because you're cutting wood that is harder than balsa, it is
best to use a more sturdy blade than the #11 blade provided with
the strip cutter, I prefer the #2 blade. Make sure that your
cutting surface is clean from any debris that could cause the
cut to become un-square.
Start with a fresh edge on the wood to be cut, or an edge that
you last used the strip cutter with. Expand the blade out to
the width you want the piece cut, and adjust the blade so that
it only cuts into the wood enough to score it. Always run the
length of the wood you're cutting, trying to stop half way will
only result in your wasting the wood later. The extra wood cut,
can always be used for the project later.
After the initial cut, adjust the blade so that it cuts deeper,
and repeat until the wood is split. Please remember it is
better to take more time in cutting the wood, as you will get a
more accurately cut piece that way, than if you try to make a
deep cut and cut quicker.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(1) Top 0.0625 x
1.25 x 2.5833 Making
sure the grain runs the long way (2.5833") cut the top piece
using the strip cutter to cut the full length of the basswood
strip, the remaining wood after the top is cut to length can be
used to make the sides, filler strip and partitions below!
Click Picture to Enlarge
(2) Sides 0.0625 x 1.1875 x 2.5208 There are two sides to this piece, you can cut these pieces
using your strip cutter, and then cutting to length with the
miter saw. Each side piece will have to have a rabbit cut into
it later, but I first want to cut the back piece before I cut
the rabbit, to make sure that the rabbit is the right size for
the back.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(1) Filler Strip 0.0625 x
0.0625 x 2.3333
The filler strip is used to fill the space between the top
partition and the top of the chest. Using the strip cutter,
adjust the blade to trim off 0.0625" off the remaining wood
strip, be careful with this piece, as it is very fragile, cut to
length.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(12) Drawer Guides 0.0625 x
0.0625 x 1.0417
Using what remains of the piece from the filler strip above, you
can cut several drawer guides - if you need to, you can cut
another 0.0625 strip off the remaining wood, before you cut the
partitions below. Cut each piece 1.0417" in length using the
jig below for speed.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Using a jig to cut multiple
pieces the same length
I have found the fastest way to do this is with a simple jig for
the miter box. Just cut a piece of wood to fit edge to edge
inside the miter saw, and hold in place with a clamp, then slide
the piece to cut up to the block and cut with the saw.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(5) Partitions 0.0625 x 1.1667 x 2.3333
These are the "shelves" that divide the drawers from
the drawers below or above. There are 5 of them each one can be
cut to width with the strip cutter and then to length, by using
the miter saw.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(12) Drawer
Dividers 0.0625 x 0.125 x 0.5052
Using the strip cutters and the 1/16" basswood strip, cut a
strip 0.125" in width the full length of the basswood strip,
then using the miter saw and jig, cut to length. When I
start construction, I may decide to make three long drawer
dividers, and use dados to fit to partitions, instead of using
12 individual dividers.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Base Front 0.0625 x 0.3542 x
2.5833
With the strip cutters, cut a 0.3542" wide strip of wood the
full length of the 1/16" basswood sheet. Then cut to length in
the miter saw. A pattern will be transferred onto this wood to
be cut out for the front design on the wood.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(2) Base Sides 0.0625 x 0.3542 x
1.25
From the same strip of wood cut for the base front, using the
miter saw, cut two side pieces 1.25" long each. These too will
have a pattern transferred and cut out as shown below.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Transferring
the pattern to the front and side pieces
Using the PDF file and the custom graph paper, draw the design
and then transfer it to each piece of wood. I plan on providing
a printout later, to save you the trouble of doing it yourself.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Cutting the pattern out of the
front and side pieces
Cutting out the pattern is relatively easy using only your knife
and a set of needle files. You first begin by cutting to the
pattern from the edge of the wood, using straight cuts, make
sure you don't cut beyond the pattern itself. These little
nibbles are then easy to remove, you then use your needle files
to file the wood to the pattern.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(16) Drawer
Bottoms 0.0104 x 0.4479 x 1.1458
Using 1/32" wood sheet and the strip cutter cut a single strip
0.4479 inches in width the full length of the wood sheet.
Before you cut these to size, sand the thickness to the required
0.0104 to 0.0216. Now cut 16 of bottoms using the
miter box jig to a lengths of 1.1458 inches each, later
we will sand the edges.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(1) Back
0.0208 x 2.3958 x 2.3958
Again using the 1/32" wood sheet cut the back piece out. We
will be thinning this wood to the correct thickness later!
Click Picture to Enlarge
(32)
Drawer Sides 0.0417 x 0.4896 x 1.1458
Using the 1/16" wood sheet, and the strip cutters, cut 3 or 4
strips 0.4896 wide the full length of the wood sheet. Allow to
sit until we add the dado cuts later.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(32)
Drawer Ends 0.0417 x 0.4583 x 0.4166
Using the 1/16" wood sheet, and the strip cutter cut 1 strip
0.4166 inches in width. Again using the strip cutter set to
0.4583 inches, cut 32 drawer ends. I found it was easier to
make two cuts -- one from each side of the wood strip. This
also make the finished cut more accurate.
Click Picture to Enlarge
(16)
Drawer Fronts 0.0625 x 0.5 x 0.5
The final wood pieces are the drawer fronts. Using the strip
cutter and the 1/16" wood sheet, cut a single strip 0.5 inches
in width the full length of the sheet. Using the same
adjustment on the strip cutter cut the 16 drawer fronts. Making
multiple cuts from both sides works best for me, and again
provide the most accurate cuts.
Sanding,
Sizing
Click Picture to Enlarge
Sanding
the Back - then rabbit the Sides
Currently the back is 0.03125 (1/32)" thick, and it needs to be
reduced to 0.0208" thick. I'm using the handy sanding tools I
mentioned in my journal page for December 15, 2005, to sand to
the thickness I need. Be very careful when sanding the back, as
it is going to become very thin, and will fracture easily.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Once you have achieved the thickness for
the back needed, it is time to cut the rabbits into the side
pieces, the back will fit into. Using your back as a thickness
guide, adjust the strip cutter to the thickness of the back
piece. Adjust the blade depth so that it cuts to the depth of
0.0313 inches. Slice the back edge of each side - now using
your x-acto knife carefully cut along the edge, cut to the depth
of the initial cut, and remove using the edge of the x-acto
knife.
Set the pieces aside for later.
Click Picture to Enlarge
The resulting dado will accommodate the
back very nicely. Now do the same for the other side piece, and
set both pieces aside for later!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Cutting the dado,
Sanding the Drawer Sides and Bottoms
The easiest way to cut the dados for the drawer side is to use
the strip cutter and "etch" the section to be removed. You must
be very careful of the depth of your cut when making these
dados, as we will sand to the correct thickness later.
Cutting the dados is very precise work and will require a bit of
practice and patience. Careful adjustments on the strip cutter,
will make this process go much faster and easier.
For the drawer sides, you'll want to cut the dado to a depth of
0.0208 inches. Carefully make sure the knife blade cuts only to
this depth - test on a scrap piece of wood and measure
carefully. Tighten the screws holding the knife blade - tight so
that the blade doesn't move.
Adjust the blade out from the strip cutter's edge to .0313 or
0.0407 inches (depending on how thick the bottoms are)
and make the cut on one edge of all the drawer sides. This cut
is the top edge of the grove (dado) where the drawer bottom will
go. Make this cut on each strip before preceding.
Now reduce the cutter to 0.0209 inches from the strip cutter
edge and repeat the cuts on the same edge of each drawer strip.
Now adjust the blade out from the strip cutter's edge just
slightly and repeat each cut making small width adjustment until
you reach the top most cut made in the first step.
I have found that removing the wood between the cuts is very
simply now, just use the tip of the knife blade, or a chisel
modified jewelers screw driver, and chisel or "flick" each
section out. Make sure you use pressure towards the thick side
only, as the bottom edge might fracture off if too much pressure
is used. I use the edge of the knife to smooth the bottom once
the sections are removed - I just move the knife blade in a
scraping motion, side to side, to smooth - not in a sawing
motion that cuts.
You can now cut the dadoed side strips into the 32 sides of
1.1458 inches long each.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Currently the drawer sides are 0.0625"
thick and need to be thinned to 0.0417 inches thick. With 32
sides to sand down, it is best to make a simple sanding jig.
To create this jig, just select a 3 inch long piece of wood
wide enough to accept a dado the size of the side piece to
be sanded. Using the miter saw cut to the depth of the
thickness of the piece of wood to be sanded "0.0417 inches" -
then cut the excess out using the strip cutter or a chisel.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Next glue a retaining piece to one edge of
this jig to hold the side piece in place while sanding.
Click Picture to Enlarge
At both ends of the jig glue another piece
running perpendicular to the dado. It is very important that
these side pieces are glued in the correct position. To do
this, cut a strip of the sand paper you're going to use to sand
the side pieces, to 2 1/2 inches wide, sit the dado section on
the sand paper and then glue the side pieces in place making
sure the entire jig is square, also make sure the side rails
touch the table NOT the sand paper! -- this way they will act as
a stop when you're sanding the side pieces.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Using this jig will speed up the sanding
process greatly, and increase the accuracy of each side piece.
Using a 2 1/2 inch wide strip of sand paper, sand each pieces of
wood - make sure the side rails on the jig remain on the table
and not on the sand paper.
Click Picture to Enlarge
If the jig was built properly, you should
feel less resistance as each side piece reaches 0.0417 inches
thick. I realize that this is very tedious work, but in the
end, the results will make it worth the effort, as the resulting
piece will look more like the real chest, even when taking close
up pictures. Your drawer sides should be now ready for
assembly!
Click Picture to Enlarge
You'll need to make a new sanding jig for
sanding the drawer bottoms. Using the same process as
above, create the jig and use it to sand the 16 drawer bottoms
to a thickness of 0.0104 inches. This is pretty thin, so if you
want, you can leave them
0.0208 inches thick instead. If you do that make sure
you use the red measurements for
the dado cuts above. Thin each bottom piece to 0.0104 or
0.0208 inches thick. I realize
that this is very tedious work, but in the end, the results will
make it worth the effort, as the resulting piece will look more
like the real chest, even when taking close up pictures.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Preparing the Drawer End Pieces
To begin with just trim up the edges on these 32 end pieces a
bit. The final sanding will be done after the drawer is
assembled!
Putting
the Apothecary Chest Together
Click Picture to Enlarge
Building the
Shelves Begin by gluing the filler strip to the front edge of the
top shelf (this is not the top but one of 5 shelves). Make sure
that it is flush with the front and side edges of the
shelf!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Next mark the remaining 4 shelves for the
placement of the drawer guides. These are marked by placing the
first guide mark in the center of the top - flush with the back
edge. The remaining two guides go 1/2 way between the middle
guide and the edge. Illustration shows the measurements.
Click Picture to Enlarge
After checking your measurements twice -
Glue the drawer guides on only one shelf, again double checking
the measurements. Allow this drawer guides shelf to dry. After
the drawer guides have dried - use this shelf as a guide to glue
up the second shelf's drawer guides, remember if you face the
two like in the picture, one set of drawer guides will be flush
with the top side, and the other set will be flush with the
bottom side.
Using the same original piece - glue up the other two shelves
and drawer guides. Marking the back edge of the original is the
best way, as it won't show in the completed Apothecary Chest!
Click Picture to Enlarge
This is where things are going to change a
bit from the original plan. I'm going to change the original
design, of using 12 drawer dividers, to a plan using 3 long
dividers. But don't despair, as you're still going to use the
original 12 to insure proper spacing between shelves.
Make sure that each drawer divider is exactly the same length as
the rest of the drawer dividers - 0.5052 inches in length. Now
lightly glue each of these
dividers into its proper place as indicated in the picture to
the right. Do this for all 4 shelves. When I say lightly, I
mean very little glue, these dividers are going to be removed
later!
Click Picture to Enlarge
After you have finished positioning the
drawer dividers, it is time to assemble the shelves. Using the
gluing jig, glue each shelf into place. Again use very little
glue, as these dividers will be removed later. It is also
important to make sure the shelves remain parallel to each
other.
Click Picture to Enlarge
After you have assembled the shelves it
should look like this picture.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Next comes the assembly of the main box
for the Apothecary Chest. Remember the dados on the sides have
to go to the back side of the shelf assembly. Using a pencil
and marking lightly, mark the position of each shelf on the
sides. The top filler piece is to be flush with the top edge of
the sides, and flush with the front as well. Do one side at a
time, and allow to dry completely before continuing!
A BIT OF A PLAN CHANGE!
While the sides are
drying, you'll need to make the single piece drawer dividers.
Take a piece of 1/16 inch wood (0.0625) and the strip cutter,
cut a strip 0.125 inches wide by at least 3 time the length of
the chest assembly. We'll cut each to length later!
Click Picture to Enlarge
After the sides have
completely dried, it is time to
remove the short drawer dividers and notch the shelves to accept
the new one piece drawer dividers. Using the edge of the knife,
cut the glue joint between the shelf and the drawer divider.
After all 12 have been removed, carefully mark a 1/16th inch
section to be removed, be very accurate on the positions of
these notches, and cut smaller than the 1/16th inch to insure a
tight fit!
As indicated in the picture, use the knife to notch out the area
for the new drawer dividers to fit into.
DO NOT cut a notch in the top
or bottom shelf!
Click Picture to Enlarge
After cutting the notches a bit less than
1/16th inch wide and to the depth of the drawer guides, cut the
long strip into 3 equal length pieces that will fit tightly (but
not too tightly) between the bottom shelf and the top shelf.
Cut a hair long, and then sand to length - we want a tight fit,
but not one that will bow the shelf!
Carefully check the fit, and when satisfied it will fit
properly, glue into place. You should end up with a box that
looks like the one here!
If for some reason
your drawers guides are not aligned correctly, they can be
removed and be glued as needed Use the same technique as you
used to remove the drawer dividers.
Click Picture to Enlarge
The next step is to miter the base front
and side pieces. Simply cut opposing 45 degree angles on both
ends of the front base piece. Next miter a matching 45 degree
angle on the front side of each base sides -- make sure the
angles are correct before you cut!
Click Picture to Enlarge
I prefer to glue up the base, before I
attach to the main box, which allows me to make any alteration
necessary. I use the gluing jig to insure that the pieces are
square and straight. After the assembly is dry, I make any
needed changes before I attach to the main box.
Glue one base side and allow to dry!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Glue the second base side and allow to
dry!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Position the glued base onto the main box,
flush with the bottom shelf - make sure the sides are also lined
up correctly. Clamp and allow to dry completely!
Click Picture to Enlarge
After the glue has dried, do any minor
sanding needed to remove any excess glue.
Click Picture to Enlarge
The next step is to put the top on the
chest. It is flush with the back edge and over hangs evenly on
the sides and front. Glue in place and allow to dry
completely.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge
Making a filler to
hide the imperfections you might have!
Whenever you build a relatively intricate miniature like this
one, you are bound to have a few imperfections that you want to
hide. Wood filler has never satisfied me, especially when it
comes to staining, so I designed my own filler, that is easy to
make and use.
To begin with you need to collect the sawdust from the fine
sanding that you do. Whenever I sand something, I take the
sawdust created and store it in a box, labeled for the kind of
wood it comes from.
Using a scrap piece of wood, determine the shade of stain you
want the Apothecary Chest to have.
Now on a piece of thick glass, or a plate, take a small pile of
sawdust, mix in a small amount of stain, until you reach the
color you have decided on, Mix very well, mashing till all the
wood is stained the color you have chosen. Set aside and allow
to dry completely, stirring occasionally to keep from clumping.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Stain the chest to match the sawdust
mixture you have made. Make sure you remember that the stain
will lighten as it dries. You might as well stain the back also
at this time!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Once the chest is dried, and you're sure
of the color, mix a small amount of stained sawdust with a bit
of varnish till it reaches the consistency of thick peanut
butter and use it to fill the imperfections. I use a plastic
bag to mix on, so I can dispose of later.
Click Picture to Enlarge
NOTE!
when you mix with the varnish - the wood filler will take on a
darker color, the same way stained wood does when the finish is
added.
Allow the filler mix to dry completely and then sand. Re-stain
as needed!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Go ahead and finish the chest as well!
Sand lightly between coats (steel wool works best) and finish to
your taste!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Building
the Drawers
Each drawer is made from 6 pieces of wood - 2 sides,
2 ends, 1 bottom and the drawer fronts. Assembling these
drawers will be much easier if you create a jig to help you.
There are several ways to make this jig, the easiest is by using
a commercially available gluing jig with sides, or by making a
simple one out of wood pieces.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Start by double checking the size of the
drawer sides, ends and bottom pieces. Whenever you deal with
small items, even the smallest error can make a big difference.
I test fitted the pieces and discovered that I needed to remove
a small amount from the bottom edge of the end pieces, in order
to accommodate the bottom piece. I used the strip cutter to
remove this section.
First put the end pieces on one side, and allow to dry! Make
sure that the dado is pointing up and that there is enough room
to slip the bottom piece in place once dried.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Next glue on the other side on, again
making sure the bottom will slide into place as needed!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Test to make sure this drawer fits into
the Apothecary Chest properly, remember the drawer front has to
be added later, so allow for it when checking the fit! If
everything fits correctly, continue to next step -- Otherwise
make adjustments then continue!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Next you slide the bottom piece into
place, you can always sand the edges slightly if needed to
prevent the piece from bowing when slid into place -- glue only
one end of the bottom into place.
Click Picture to Enlarge
The drawer is now complete except for the
front panel which will be added later. Now repeat the process
15 more times. Once all 16 drawers have been completed, set
aside for later.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge
After the drawers have dried completely,
sand the edges to make sure you have flush and flat edges.
Now its time to attach the front panel to each drawer. Make
sure that the bottom and side edges of the front panel aligns
properly with the bottom and sides of the drawer. There should
be a slight overhang on the sides, which we'll adjust later.
Allow to dry completely.
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge
Once all the drawers fronts are glued and
dried, slide each drawers into place, additional sanding on the
sides of the drawer may be needed in order for the drawers to
fit! Once all drawers are in the chest, number each drawer 1 -
16 on the back of the drawer end piece with pencil.
Click Picture to Enlarge
This next part requires a good eye and a
bit of patience! Sand the edges of the drawer fronts to fit
into the opening with close tolerance, but not so close that it
is hard to slide! Once the proper size is achieved, round the
front edges of the drawer front.
Do any needed touchup sanding and prepare to stain. When ready,
stain each drawer to match the chest and allow to dry
completely.
Click Picture to Enlarge
While you're waiting for the drawers to
dry, glue the back into place. Make any adjustments needed for
it to fit in the dados!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Click Picture to Enlarge
The only thing left at this point is to
finish and add the drawer pulls.
To finish: Remove the drawers and put the finish you prefer on
the chest. You do not need to finish inside the chest, or the
back, as those needs to remain unfinished the same way a real
chest would be. You can also wait till the project is complete
to finish - I do this so that I can add "imperfections" to the
chest for realism.
The drawers only need finish put on the drawer fronts, you can
if you want add a bit of wax to the sides and bottom in order to
allow to slide more easily!
Allow to dry completely between coats - Finish to taste.
The Final
Step!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Preparing the
Drawer Pulls
I've thought of several ways to make the drawer
pulls, from Sculpey to wood.
Having never worked with Sculpey before, I decided to do a bit
of experimenting to see what would work best. If you have any
hints - send them to me as I am a novice with Sculpey.
I've tried to make molds, rolling jigs, and even tried it free
hand, I don't have the dexterity in my fingers for that to
work. So I've decided to make them out of wood.
I'm starting with a 1/8th inch dowel and
using my lathe (a drill will work just as well if mounted
properly) and a set of small needle files to make the pulls.
Mount a short piece of dowel into the jaws of the lathe, or
drill, only allowing about 2 inches or so to extend. You want
to make sure that the dowel doesn't bend excessively while
filing it.
Once you have the dowel mounted, you need
to mark the area needed to be cut out. While the drill or lathe
is running and using the picture to the left, mark the areas
that need to be cut out with a pencil.
Now
using your flat needle file, slightly round the end of the
dowel. Now using the round or 1/2 round needle file, remove the
curved section -- make sure that back end of the curved section
is less than the front "knob" part of the pull. Lastly using
the square needle file, cut the post section of the pull, then
remove the knob with your X-Acto knife.
Repeat the process for each pull --
NOTE! File the end flat before marking the new pull.
Practice make perfect, so don't be afraid to cut a few extras!
Click Picture to Enlarge
The Plans call for Porcelain pulls, so
you'll need to paint the pulls white - I don't paint the post
section, I believe the glue holds better that way! Allow these
to dry completely. Using an extremely fine sand paper smooth
them out a bit before you use!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Using a straight edge or center finder,
mark the center of each drawer. Don't be afraid to adjust with
our eyes, if it doesn't look correctly centered. You are
dealing with very fine measurements and even the slightest
offset can make it look bad!
Click Picture to Enlarge
Now using an appropriate size drill bit,
drill a hole all the way through the center of the drawer front,
sized to accept the post on the drawer pulls. Be careful when
drilling through the back, as the wood might splinter -- I put
another piece of scrap wood behind the drawer front to insure
that doesn't happen.
Click Picture to Enlarge
The drawer pulls are very small as you can
see - you need to be careful adding the glue!
Test fit each drawer pull before you glue it. Cut the post to
length if needed, and remove any excess glue before it dries.
Apply glue to the post, and glue in
place.
Click Either Picture to Enlarge
THE 16 DRAWER APOTHECARY CHEST IS COMPLETE
Like any piece of furniture, they are
never perfect! So I always like to add a bit of distress to the
piece before I display in a room. Rounded corners, instead of
sharp crisp corners. Maybe a mouse hole, or worm holes. A
cigarette burn, or even a glass ring or two, any of these can
make the piece look more real.
I would love to see your completed projects - and remember you
can always ask questions in the forum if needed.
I would like to see "YOUR" APOTHECARY CHESTS
in this section! So
Me a Picture and I'll add it
here!
